This a a post about our February trip to Boothbay Harbor in Maine. If you’d like to skip ahead to the things to do and where to eat section you can go directly to Winter in Boothbay Harbor.
A Winter Break
As luck would have it, Eun’s school closed for a week at the end of February, and that week just happened to be our birthday week. After a little online searching, we found a place in Boothbay Harbor.
A Quick stop in Blue Hill
It’s 3 and a half hours to drive from East Machias to Boothbay Harbor, so we decided to take a quick stop in Blue Hill, a mere hour and a half down the road. Blue Hill is located is in the Downeast region which is the same region as East Machias.
I chose Blue Hill because I wanted to see the sculpture, The Window of the Sea Wind by Hitoshi Tanaka. The sculpture is located at Emerson Park and is part of the Maine Sculpture Trail. I first heard about The Window of the Sea Wind and the Maine Sculpture Trail from Downeast Cowboy, a local fisherman that also happens to have a pretty popular instagram with a lot of fun and interesting information about Maine. I like to check him out from time to time to see where we should go next.
BoothBay Harbor, Maine: Yesterdays
People of the Dawnland, The First Peoples
Long before white settlers arrived in the late 17th century, this land was home to the Etchemin people, part of the great Wabanaki tribes – the “People of the Dawnland” among the Eastern Algonquian nations. Known today as the Malecite and Passamaquoddy, their ancestral roots run deep through Maine’s fertile soil and winding waterways.
For those keen to learn more about these First Peoples’ rich heritage, the University of Maine’s Folklife Center offers an enlightening introduction. Yet a somber truth lies in the fact that out of the 570 federally-recognized Native Nations across this land, the Wabanaki stand apart – excluded from the sovereign tribal rights and protections enshrined in the U.S. Constitution.
To deepen your understanding of the Wabanaki’s struggles and triumphs, one can visit Abbe Museum’s website. And for those seeking to inform themselves about tribal sovereignty’s critical importance and the consequences of its denial to these resilient people, a wealth of knowledge awaits the intrepid learner who follows the path. It is a path worth following.
When Maine was Massachusetts: A Very Condensed History
Although white settlers arrived in the late 1600s, it wasn’t until 1729 that a permanent township took root, christened Townsend by the Scotch-Irish farming families whose descendants would eventually turn to the sea’s bounty. In those days, what is now the proud state of Maine lay under Massachusetts’ domain. Incorporated into the Bay State in 1764, the town’s name shifted to Boothbay.
But Boothbay’s path to today’s tranquil charms was hard-won through the trials of war and repeated British invasions, grievances that stoked Maine’s fight for statehood. For the Old Bay State could not safeguard its easternmost relative from foreign threats. At long last in 1820, the indomitable Pine Tree State claimed its place as the 23rd star on the national flag.
Around the mid-1800s Boothbay was already seen as a summer resort town. Big hotels began popping up by the 1880s, and city folk then called “rusticators” flocked to Boothbay Harbor for a simple bucolic summer. You can still see evidence of this history in Boothbay Harbor. Strolling the idyllic harbor streets today, one is transported through an architectural reverie of that gilded era.
Much of the original industry that sustained Boothbay through the pre-revolution up to the post-Korean War years are gone, but somethings remain. The shipyards and fishing remains with lobster being the pillar of the fishing industry. There is the boat building industry, and of course tourism. Beginning in the late spring and stretching until late fall, Maine’s coastal towns, like Bar Harbor in the Downeast region, and Midcoast Boothbay Harbor along with its neighboring island Southport and Linekin peninsula, fill up with new and ancestral rusticators, and new rusticators. However, winter is a different story.
Boothbay Harbor: Today
Boothbay Harbor, a deep-water port capable of accommodating cruise ships and cargo vessels, belies its quiet, charming coastal town atmosphere. Nestled between the Sheepscot and Damariscotta rivers, the harbor’s tranquil waters envelop a rocky evergreen-topped island that seems to float serenely on the gently rippling surface. Even on the coldest winter days, the Atlantic sparkles with shimmering sunbeam reflections, painting an idyllic scene. Colorful shops lining the streets lend a blithe ambience to this quaint winter retreat.
The Mid-Coast region has long been renowned for its boatbuilding prowess, dating back to the 1816 founding of Hodgdon Brothers in East Boothbay – now the nation’s oldest continuously operating yacht company. Starting with schooners they are now known for building specialized military vessels and yachts. They are also known to build superyachts or megayachts, but we didn’t see anything so lavish on the harbor during our visit. Truthfully, a yacht doesn’t inspire me as much as the tradition of building. These skilled craftsmen continue to carry on a 208-year family legacy, and that is impressive.
A few months ago a bad storm with hurricane winds came through a lot of the businesses near the piers and waterfront were flooded, but at the time of our visit we didn’t see any of the damage. However we were told that some places that are normally opened year round had to close due to the storm.
Winter in Boothbay Harbor
We came at the end of February with snow and ice covering the ground, and most of the restaurants and shops were closed and shuttered. We didn’t mind. We still managed to find a few opened shops and a few opened restaurants, and that’s all we needed. It had just snowed two days before our trip, and blankets of snow covered the sidewalks, wide open spaces, and the piers, but it only added to the serenity we found when we arrived.
We stayed for three nights and days, and during that time we explored several parts of Boothbay Harbor, including East Boothbay, and Southport the neighboring island. Of course there were somethings that we couldn’t do that we would have loved to have experienced like getting a chance to see some puffins, but there are no boating tours until the summer. Still, we had a really nice time wandering the empty streets window shopping and exploring.
We spent a lot of time gazing out across the harbor admiring the incredible view of the sunlight glistening off the harbor’s gentle blue waters as mallards and other dabbling ducks paddled on the mild waves. The night skies were clear and black with beautiful constellations of stars that danced above us.
Where We Stayed
We stayed right on the harbor near the piers in a space named, “The Coal Shack”. We later learned that the spacious studio was named after the owner’s black lab. The owner runs a pet store called Two Salty Dogs across the street from where we were staying.
It was a small newly renovated space that was perfect for two people and a dog. We chose the place because it was dog friendly. In fact, “The Coal Shack” was the friendliest dog friendly places we have stayed so far. The pet fee was reasonable, and you could tell the owner was indeed a dog lover. We found out when we visited him at his store, Two Salty Dogs, that at one time he had four black labs. Man has his type.
It was beautiful and comfortable inside with its timber walls and copper fixtures. The kitchenette cabinets and appliances were painted a cobalt blue, which combined with the copper fixtures and gilt-lacquered gold and blue wall, gave the entire space a luxuriously warm yet cozy feel. Two french doors opened onto the balcony which on the days we stayed was covered in snow, but we could still see the harbor and get a lot of sunshine and light into the space. The furniture was all very rustic and anachronistic, but comfortable.
We really loved the place. We also were aware that in the peak season this place probably doubles in price and is booked out. The dog friendliness, the perfect location, and how nice it is in general adds to its summer value. We probably wouldn’t be able to afford it during the peak seasons. It wasn’t cheap in winter either, but it was less, and we were able to swing it.
Where We Ate
Not a lot of places are open during the winter, especially in February. However, thanks to a friendly cashier at Sherman’s bookstore who showed us a list of open restaurants and their hours in February, we did find a few places to eat out.
Our first night in Boothbay Harbor was on a Sunday. Lucky for us we were able to visit Footbridge Brewery on this night because it was closed for the other two nights we were in town. It was also lucky because the owner offered two hamburger specials at great prices. We each got the specials which were huge burgers with delicious fixings that only cost us a total of $12.00 for both (not including the beers). It is pretty difficult to find any single dish at any restaurant for under $12.00 these days, so it was a treat for both our taste buds, and our pockets. We also enjoyed their in house brewed beers. We opted to share the flight of beers so that we could sample a few of the flavors. We tried the Shrimp Run, a pale ale; The Woodcutter, an American strong ale; the Raw, a Nordic raw brewed in a traditional Norwegian “no boil”; and lastly we tried the rotating tap which was the Tequila Mockingbird; a barrel aged jalapeño habanero pale ale. My favorite was the Tequila Mockingbird, and not just because of the name. Eun’s favorite was the Shrimp Run.
Located at 25 Granary Way
We came here on our first full day in Boothbay Harbor for lunch. We had the Margherita cooked in an Italian brick oven on a thin crust. It was delicious. Perfect sauce, not too sweet not too sharp. Perfectly delicious. Eun enjoyed his pizza with a glass of beer and I had a glass of red wine. A pino noir, I believe.
Located at 28 Union Street
We came here for dinner on our second night and the place got pretty full while we were there. It was one of the few restaurants open after 7:00 p.m. on a Monday night in the winter. A family came in near closing time, but the server sat them anyway stating that there was “no where else to eat in town, so take a seat“. The service was very friendly, and the crowed seemed local. February’s menu is limited, but it still had plenty of good food to choose. We shared the crab cakes tapas, which if I’m being honest, I’ve had better. The breading was too salty for me personally. For dinner, Eun ordered the Bistro Chicken Parm served over fettuccine, and I had the Haddock Risotto. I was told by the cashier at Sherman’s bookstore that the Haddock Risotto was the best thing to order there, and he was right. It was scrumptious. If you like fish and risotto, I recommend that dish.
Located at 12 The By-Way
- Southport General Store
On our second day, we drove out to Southport to check out the general store and eat lunch. I write a bit more about Southport later in the post.
Tuesday was Eun’s birthday, and he really wanted to have lobster for his birthday dinner, but we had trouble finding a place that was open, so we decided to find some lobster to take home. We went to Pinkham’s Gourmet Market, which has really earned the moniker gourmet. We picked up some shelled lobster at the market cost of $75.00 (for two servings), fresh clams, linguine noodles, a white sauce, coleslaw and a couple of local beers. Then we went back to the Coal Shack to cook it all up. On the way to Boothbay Harbor, we picked up some cheesecake (Eun’s favorite) at Momo’s an amazing cheesecake place that has the best cheesecake I have ever eaten. We had all the fixin’s for a wonderful birthday dinner.
295 Townsend Ave
On our way out of town we stopped at Baker’s Way, a Vietnamese restaurant, but with fresh donuts and coffee. This place was crowded in the morning, and definitely populated with locals judging by the overheard conversations of fishing and someone’s attempt at selling their house. I picked up a gigantic apple fritter for us to split and two black coffees to start us out for our 3 and a half hour drive back to East Machias.
Located 89 Townsend Ave
We didn’t get a chance to eat here as we were too late. The owner told us that he bakes the bread fresh in the morning and then closes when he sells out. He did however direct us to Ports Pizzeria, and Baker’s Way. He also took us back to the bar that he had just opened in a room in back of the Sub-shop. A little speak-easy that he named NEAT. As you may have guessed by the name it is a whiskey and cocktail bar. We didn’t have the opportunity to imbibe in the drinks, but we both really like the woody rustic atmosphere, and if we make it back to Boothbay Harbor we will definitely come early enough for a sandwich and come later for a cocktail.
Located 25 Townsend Ave
What We Did
Aside from eating, we also explored the town a bit. We explored as much as the cold weather allowed. We went out every morning and evening to walk Penny down to Pier 1 to the small dog park. The first morning out boots crunched over the snow, and slide on the ice, but by the next day the temperature has increased just enough to melt the snow to where we could see some of the pier’s wood planks.
- Walked around the piers
I noted three piers on the on the westside of the harbor where we were staying. In the winter there isn’t a lot to see since most places are closed for the season, but also places were closed due to damages occurred from the storm.
- The Footbridge
The Boothbay Harbor footbridge is the longest wooden foot bridge in the country. The bridge connects the west to the east. Before the footbridge was built in 1901, people would have to either walk around the head of the harbor, which could be quite a walk, or they could take the ferry which cost a nickel. It’s a pleasant walk and right in the middle of the bridge is what looks like a house. I’d never seen a house on a bridge before and it made me think of something you would find in a children’s story. The house was built in 1902, and had been many things over the 200 plus years. On the day we crossed it was closed.
- The BoothBay Harbor Region Sculpture Trail
Originally, I had thought this sculpture trail would be connected to the Maine Sculpture trail, but apparently it is not. After a little research, I read that this trail was modeled after a sculpture trail in New Hampshire. It appears as if Maine, may be a great place for sculptures. It certainly has the atmosphere of natural influence. We didn’t follow the entire trail of 33 sculptures, but we did see a few. It is not possible to walk the entire trail as there are sculpture in both Southport, East Boothbay, and Ocean Point, but you can see a lot of them in the downtown area.
Where We Shopped
More restaurants than stores open
This is the oldest bookstore in Maine. Well, not this location, the very first Sherman’s Bookstore was opened in Bar Harbor in 1886. The one in Boothbay open a little over 100 years later in 1989. The person who worked in the bookstore was extremely helpful. In fact, if it wasn’t for him we wouldn’t have know what restaurants were open. If you visits Sherman’s here you’ll find a great gift store downstairs and the bookstore upstairs
A typical small town clothing store with cute finds along with nice quality souvenirs
Like walking into an old hippie store that you would find in Northern California in the 1970s and 80s. It was like I was in high school again and looking for tarot cards and crystals during my my very short lived, “maybe I’ll be a Wiccan phase.” I did see a deck of Gypsy Witch Fortune Telling cards that brought me back to age 16 or 17 when my friend, who was much more dedicated to witchcraft and D&D then I, had the very same cards. You don’t see stores like this much anymore, especially a store of this size.
Things We Did Outside of BoothBay Harbor
Linekin Peninsula
Linekin peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean and lies between Linekin Bay to the west and the Damariscotta river estuary to the east. There are two nature preserves, the Linekin Preserve and the Ocean Point Preserve. East Boothbay is a village about 3 miles northeast of Boothbay Harbor and it is located on the northern part of Linekin peninsula.
East Boothbay General Store
We drove to East Boothbay and stopped briefly in the East Boothbay General Store during our excursion on Ocean Point Road. The East Boothbay General Store in a rustic three story house with a mansard roof and a triangular turret that appears to rise above an old barn. The store was founded in 1883 as a general store. We stepped inside and looked at the beautiful pottery and other crafts, along with the food, but we passed on eating since we already ate, but definitely next time.
Ocean Point Road
One of the highlights of our trip to the Boothbay region was a drive along the coastal headland Linekin peninsula. HWY 96 takes you out to Ocean Point Scenic Drive.
Ocean Point Drive is a loop around the southern point of the peninsula and it offers expansive views of the Atlantic ocean. From Grimes Cove you can see Ram Island and the Ram Island lighthouse, and behind that you can see Firsherman’s Island. Aside the lighthouse you are able to make out a single house. The drive gives you views of the Atlantic to the east and the west and then circles around inland toward Linekin Bay. There are beautiful Queen Anne style homes built all along the road, and even a chapel built out of stones gathered from the surrounding area. Janet Wilson’s Memorial Chapel was built in 1917 by Minister Lewis G. Wilson in memory of his wife.
Coastal Maine was hit by two big storms this winter, we felt the impact of those storms in East Machias, but the midcoast and southern coastlines of Maine were hit harder. The damage from those was clearly evident when we drove along Ocean Point. Large portions of the road were cracked, crumbling and uplifted with parts of the road in broken pieces on the rack below. The road is already narrow and winding, so the cracked and broken edges only made the road narrower. There were only one or maybe two other cars on the road, so it wasn’t too stressful or a problem. I was even able to get out of the car to take a picture of the Wilson Memorial Chapel, which looked to have sustained some damage from the storms. I don’t think this drive would be as pleasant in the summer with traffic, especially if the road is still damaged. The views would be amazing, but there isn’t anywhere to pull over to take a look because the parking spaces have crumbled into the rocks and ocean below.
Southport Island
The Southport General Store was established in 1882. It is a small general store with groceries, made to order food and a little eating nook in the back. We had a couple of sandwiches for some sustenance to keep us going during out day of exploration. The Barn is a small retail shop and creative workshop space that sells local made and crafted products. The space is a literal barn renovated into a shop space. We came out to Southport specifically to see what they had in The Barn, but alas it was closed.
Graveyards
One personally interesting thing to note is the ancient graveyard next door to the General Store and Barn. The graves date back to the 19th century, although there may be some 18th century headstones as well. The grave yard is over grown and sinking into the earth with the small forest swallowing the edges. What fascinates me about the graveyard is its proximity to the road. The grave reach out to the very edge of the roadway. This is something I have notice whenever we drive around these coastal peninsular part of Maine. There are many graveyards that go right to the edge of the road, and it makes me wonder, did they pave over other parts of the graveyards? Are we driving over those graves?
Rachel Carson Coastal Greenway
Rachel Carson who wrote the groundbreaking environmental alarm call, Silent Spring, was in love with Southport and she spent the last 11 years of her life summering here. Her presence and overwhelming love for Southport permeated into the community and today you can hike through evergreens on the Rachel Carson Greenway Memorial trail.
Winter Traveling in Maine
There are not a lot of places open in the winter, especially in February, but we did get to see a lot of what was open. However there were still a couple of places open that we didn’t get the opportunity to check out that we had wanted to visit. I’ve listed them below and with links.
Farm23 not only has some great looking pastries, but they also sell some products from Salty Raven in Oregon. Salty Raven has a lot of great designs that show a love for sea life. If you can’t get to the west coast you can find her work on the east coast. Also, the owner happens to be a friend of mine.
Peak Season in BoothBay Harbor
Things get started in late May, but all restaurants open by April. The boating, boat tours and all the accommodations are in full swing by June. Things remain open til October when people begin to close up for the coming winter months. Some places remain open with winter hours during the months of November and December, but January and especially February (our birthday month) most of Booth Bay harbor and their surrounding neighbors are in hibernation.
Our Wish List During The Spring~Fall Season
I don’t know if we will make it back to Boothbay again, I do hope we do. I’ve already made a wish list for the next trip, but I’ll write that up in a separate post, but all I’ll say now is Puffins. Puffins.
Sources:
- History of Maine -Wikipedia
- Boothbay Historical Region Society
- Maine Folklife Center
- Rumsey, Barbara, “History of Boothbay Maine” (2019). Maine History Documents. 161.
https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/mainehistory/161 - Boothbay Register
An Accidental Vagabond 